6/5/2011
Today started with a heavy downpour providing a top up for the people of Funafuti who are suffering dire water shortages due to limited storage and limited rainfall. The rain cleared about sunrise, with intermittent showers following – with no wind the morning had a sultry feel.
My colleague, Mafalu, collected me from the hotel to take me to the wharf at about 7am – the people of Tuvalu were busy cleaning their front yards and starting to get out and about while the sun is still low in the sky....still berthed in dock at 8:45 as we await the final passengers for this voyage...departed 8:47.
Travelled to Vaitupu to inspect the Solar PV array at the high school and also to look at the power grid on the island to understand total loads, interconnection and develop baseline for future renewables projects.
The journey was aboard the MV Manu Folau – one of two ships donated by the Japanese to the People of Tuvalu to assist with fisheries development – but now used primarily as interisland ferries for transporting goods, pigs and people among the islands and atolls of the archipelago.
Vaitupu lies approximately 125km north-northwest of Funafuti atoll. The trip is expected to take about 6-8 hours – max speed of the ship is 12.6 knots – we sailed at about 10.5 knots through quite lumpy seas. It was a relief around 15:00 when the engines reduced speed and the first mate called “standby”. Before we knew it, the ship-to-shore system was deployed (two large wooden flat bottom boats stored on the aft deck each with a 40hp outboard). After about 4 trips it was our turn to load everything on board and head for shore – through a narrow passage in the reef toward a boat harbour surrounded by concrete walls.
We made it!
Next on the agenda was a get together in the Maneapa (meeting house) which was organised to celebrate the arrival of a team of sporting folk from Funafuti. There was the initial welcome from the island pastor, the chief of the youth council and the chief of the sports council.
Then it was time for some food – having missed lunch on the boat I was famished...an interesting array of food awaited – sweet breads, rice, fresh breadfruit, papaya, various cooked fish (zebra fish and tuna – I think), some raw fish and sausage and spam! There was also a plate of cakes. Curiously some dishes were topped with sweet biscuits and even chocolate biscuits – interesting combination – raw fish and chocolate biscuits!
Then there were more speeches by the welcoming party and the incoming party, then it was all over and the next part of my adventure began! Finding the elusive keeper of the guesthouse key! After some door to door asking around we found the man in charge and secured a room.
While waiting for him to return, Polu (my colleague from TEC who is from Vaitupu) and I chatted on the balcony of the guesthouse. The first of the evening bells rang – this is like a call to prayer for the villagers – it serves a few purposes, one being to ensure that everyone has ensured their children are in the home before dark sets in. The moon was hanging low in the sky and Polu mentioned that in the current phase (with the moon’s sliver point toward the horizon) was an indication that there could be rain – it had rained earlier in the day in Funafuti for a good hour or so. I found this interesting given that other cultures also use the moon in this manner and that the knowledge continues to be passed down through the generations – although it seems the skill to predict rain by observing the clouds has been harder to pass down through the generations.
Natural ventilation reigns here in Vaitupu – no air-conditioning plant – just louvres, and if you are lucky a ceiling fan. Once the power goes off at midnight, that’s it you are in the hands of the local breeze. Needless to say it was a long hot humid night.
7/5/2011
After little sleep – dogs barking, chickens crowing and little breeze after the power went off, I got up. It was about 7:30 and I needed water – I went to the Fusi (the village store) and got the last 3 bottles (turned they had more – I found this out in the afternoon), some snacks then headed back to the room to freshen up (as best I could as the water wasn’t working in the room!).
Then Polu came about 8:30 to take me to his house for breakfast – sweet bread, eggs, fried spam, bananas and crackers.
After breakfast we went to visit the generators – a single 100kVA unit takes the load (although the total system includes another 100kVA unit + a 60kVA unit). Then we headed to the high school and the solar PV system. This was installed to allow 24 hour power to the school without requiring additional diesel generation. The system appears to be well designed, appropriate for the tropical environment - a step in the right direction toward 100% renewables! We then took a look at the other generators at the school – a 100kVa unit (80kW) currently out of action and a small 37kVA (30kW) unit that is awaiting a sensor so they can get it cranking out the kilowatts!
The grid on Vaitupu extends along all of the roads around the island – not all houses are connected with a number having standalone PV for battery charging to power lights for night-time. There is certainly not universal access to electricity. Some minimum levels of service should be established as this may assist with benchmarking minimum power requirements and identify opportunities to develop further battery storage PV arrays around the island.
I am doubtful about the viability of wind power on Vaitupu – it does not appear to be as windy as Funafuti (maybe just the current weather pattern) – although the eastern shore near the high school may be a possibility. If monitoring is to be done in the future this would be the focus.
Certainly distributed PV systems around the village would make more sense, with slightly smaller generators for backup that would always be run a peak output to maximise fuel efficiency and reliability.
We also looked at the 8m3/day desalination plant at the school which is used to improve the quality of the water drawn from and adjacent well. Currently the pump and desalination plant are run from a portable generator due to the inoperability of the local diesel genset.
In the afternoon we took a look at the inlets to the lagoon – the lagoon was literally emptying down a hole – this must run into the coral reef and out to the sea. Fascinating! I also learnt that the germinating coconut can be eaten – the water inside the coconut appears to be used by the plant as a reservoir to develop white flesh that must sustain the plant until it establishes a root – quite sweet to eat. Polu also showed me the plant they call “bush cabbage” – once boiled and fired in coconut oil it is quite tasty – a bit like spinach more than cabbage. It is similar to broadleaf ferns that grow in NZ – parts of the young plant are taken for cooking. Interesting...turns out my Dad used to eat similar stuff when they were in the NZ Army Territorials on exercises in NZ!
There is also an abundance of red clawed crab around the mangroves on the eastern side of the lagoon – near a Taiwanese funded “milk fish” farm. Apparently deeper in the mangroves, the larger crabs live – the locals go in at night and pick up the crabs while they sleep – dinner for the next day!
This evening the second ship has arrived in Vaitupu – this will take us back to Funafuti. I walked along the shore to the southern tip of the island where there is a secluded little beach. On my way I noticed the lights at the boat ramp are solar powered. Each has a junction box and two solar panels – well would have – one panel appears to have been removed from one of the lamps. Only one unit appears to be operational – Polu suggested the battery for the other unit may also have been taken.
I am told the return journey will be longer – the ship taking us back to Funafuti is a bit larger, but slower. The ramp at the boat harbour is now packed with sacks of coconut which will be loaded for the trip to Funafuti – apparently this will go on through the night – or may be delayed until morning – it seems to be a bit of an unknown and so we wait for the call to be loaded ourselves, into the ship-to-shore craft to begin the return journey.
It has been an interesting experience – the island is quite beautiful and the people here appreciate that. Certainly it seems a lot cleaner and better looked after than Funafuti – although they are still grappling with waste management.
8/5/2011
Boarded the ship MV Nivaga 2 about 1 am – classic how these guys navigate in the dark. Shared my trip with a couple of other fellas and 3 large crates full of coconuts! As there are heaps of these on Vaitupu, the locals and some folks from other islands collect these to send to the cooperative in Funafuti. $15 per sack I am told.
I fell asleep around 2am I think and just after 6 awoke to the sound of the engines and slosh of the waves – we had departed Vaitupu.
Being laden with cargo and most likely more evenly balanced, the ship did not pitch as much, and thankfully the roll was bearable. Had lunch about 12pm – sausages, rice and chilli sauce!
By 2pm we were back in Funafuti and ready to disembark - a really interesting trip.